Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

This was quite a sight. How do you put into words the emotions that a place makes you feel? I guess I’ll just rely on my photographs for that. Right near the Reichstag in Berlin, you will find the Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Yes, that is what it is called, and it leaves no question as to what happened and what the memorial is about.

The location of this memorial is not accidental. It is located right near the Reichstag. The members of parliament must drive by it everyday on their way to make the laws for Germany at the Reichstag and are reminded how the German parliament granted a mad man “emergency powers” and sealed the fate of Europe and millions and millions of Jews, intellectuals, homosexuals, dissenters, and gypsies.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

The memorial is in a former DMZ area of the Berlin Wall, which worked out splendidly, because there were no buildings to speak of on this block. New Jersey architect Peter Eisenman designed the memorial. I learned a lot about this memorial through my tour guide Francis, a New Zealander with a degree in German History. Listen to his story about the memorial, as it is quite remarkable and not without controversy.

If you don’t take the time to see the video, here is the synopsis: there was an open invitation for artists to design a memorial. After many awful (and some not so awful) ideas, Eisenman proposed a maze, with the idea of getting lost and separated from your loved ones with which you entered the maze.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

The directors of the project liked the idea but were afraid too many people would get genuinely lost and panic. Instead, there are these monoliths starting from very short to extremely tall. As you move deeper into the monument, the  more oppressive and intimidating the monoliths get and you still get that “lost feeling”, however you can exit the memorial in any direction if you get too panicked.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

From Wikipedia: “An attached underground “Place of Information” (German: Ort der Information) holds the names of all known Jewish Holocaust victims, obtained from the Israeli museum Yad Vashem.”

What else is there to say about such a place?

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Soviet War Memorial - Photo by Adam Henstock

Adam and I visited the Soviet War Memorial at Treptower Park in South East Berlin. This was a grand scale memorial dedicated to the Soviets and citizens who fought the Nazis in WW II.

It’s hard to describe the memorial, other than it’s MASSIVE and has a feeling of oppression. Of course, just after shooting there, they gray skies opened up in a nice long stead summer rain storm. We tried to wait it out, but after an hour or so, we just made a run for the train. When we got off the train in Adam’s area of East Berlin, of course it hadn’t rained at all and everyone looked at the 2 soggy English speakers as if we were mad. Had to laugh…..good times! Here are some photos of the memorial. Notice that the largest statue is crushing a swastika under his boot and sword.

Old Imperial Postoffice now c/o Berlin

My host Adam had to work for most of the day, so I went out adventuring on my own. I slept in a bit and then took the tram (train) down to the Fernsehturm. I grabbed some curry-wurst and a roll for a quick lunch and then headed to the old imperial post office to see a photo exhibition. I was lucky enough to hit Berlin at the exact same time as the gallery c/o Berlin was displaying an exhibition from the Magnum Group.   Magnum was a group founded by some of the earliest, most influential names in photography from all over the world and they continue that tradition today. If you have ever taken a photography class, you have probably heard of Henri Cartier-Bresson. He, along with several others in the post WWII era, formed Magnum. Many of the original founders of Magnum covered WWII, the great depression, and other horrible events in the world in that time period. In fact, I would venture to say that almost everyone has seen the work of these photographers. These were the unforgettable photos that Americans saw in pictorial magazines such as  Life and Look. Much of the exhibit included the Magnum photographer’s work pre-Magnum. Some of these photographers were the first ones to the concentration camps in Poland and Germany where they documented the atrocities and aftermath of the horrible things that went on there. George Rodger had a major display in the exhibition.  His photographs of the death camps in Bergen-Belsen were incredible and obscene, in the sense that they assult your senses with the raw unedited truth about Nazi Germany. George Rodger also covered the London blitz. Most photos were of “the morning after” an air raid assault by Germany. Brits picking up the scattered debris and carrying on with life, refusing to be beaten. I am still amazed at how SHARP these photos are. Using only available light and slow film, these guys could produce truly amazing and stunning photographs! These were REAL photographers!

Crystal Night or Night of shattered windows

There was also a few cool galleries depicting life in the early Soviet Union. When the Soviet people were still idealistic and optimistic about their future and the future of Communism all the way up to the 2000′s where scrap collectors sit and wait for jettisoned and failed aerospace rockets.

Next I stopped by one of the more famous synagogues that was destroyed on Kristallnacht (Night of the broken glass) on November 10th, 1938. If the Jewish people had any doubt about the future, this night removed all doubt. I saw evidence of this in the Holocaust Museum in Washington, D.C. where they have part of the original, burned threshold of the temple. As you can see, there is a plaque on this reconstructed synagogue acknowledging this watershed event. At the bottom of this plaque it says “Vergiss es nie”, which literally translated is “Forget it Never”.  There were German police standing watch at the Synagogue. I took a picture of one of the guards, but, every time I would focus, the cop would move. I do believe on purpose, although I’m not sure why, so I’m not posting it.

I got caught in a small rainstorm but just kind of hung out in a cafe area until it cleared up enough catch the tram back to the flat.

Middle Eastern Dinner

We ate supper at a nice little middle-eastern place down the block from Adam’s flat. We had haloumi, shawarma, and falafel with some good curry on the side and a little hummus and the usual flatbread. WOW. Everything was utterly amazing and priced so cheap here. You can get a meal like this here and eat out on the sidewalk cafe for about the same price as a trip to Taco Cabana. The one thing to know about eating out in Berlin, however, is that it’s considered tacky or sometimes right out refused if you ask for tap water in a glass. The Berliners drink only bottled water when away from home, which is strange, being that this is a very “green” city. Add to that the fact the all of the bottled water is carbonated. Yes, fizzy water only. You can only find the non-carbonated water in American friendly shops, of which there are a few.

Another amazing day in an amazing city! The Berliners are soooooo cool in their “Do whatever the hell you want” attitude. I love it here!

The Fernsehturm in Berlin Germany

I had a terrific day doing one of the things I love the most: Biking! I took a fantastic tour of the city on a beach bike with Fat Tire Bike Tours. Our excellent guide was Francis, a New Zealand native with a degree in German history, so as you can imagine, he was a treasure trove of the History connected with each of the locations that we visited in Berlin.

Our bike tour started in East Berlin, the former GDR (Soviet sponsored) controlled sector of Germany. Francis did an awesome job relating the complexities in the splitting of Germany and subsequently the splitting of Berlin after WWII.

Our tour began at the Fernsehturm in former East Berlin. This was erected in the mid 1960′s by the GDR as a symbol of strength and power and very visible from the Reichstag in free West Berlin, which was no accident. It was modeled after the mid-1950′s Fernsehturm Stuttgart, of which San Antonio natives will note looks remarkably like the Tower of the Americas in downtown San Antonio.  Now, in post GDR Berlin, the tower is a pulsar for tourists and a great starting point for touring Berlin.

Memorial at Bebelplatz for the Night of Book Burning

Next we stopped by the Humboldt University of Berlin square, where greats like Albert Einstein wandered the halls until 1933, when most intellectuals fled Germany because of the  anti-intellectualism that went hand-in-hand with the antisemitism and the propaganda machine of the Nazis. One this spot May 10, 1933, the Nazis held the largest book burning ever, where and estimated 20,000 books were burned. Communist authors, Jewish authors, and others loved by many Americans such as Jack London, Ernest Hemingway  and H.G. Wells were burned. The author of the Nazi propaganda machine, Joseph Goebbels, gave a speech on that night where he said “No to decadence and moral corruption!  Yes to decency and morality in family and state!”.  The Nazis used “Family Values” to legislate their morality and attempt to gain additional powers. Sound familiar Americans? Anyway, there is a memorial to the death of intellectualism in the center of the square. It is a library underground covered with glass with empty shelf space for 20,000 books. The most chilling part of this memorial is the quote on the plaque by the Jewish poet Heinrich Heine, (his books were burned that night):

“Das war ein Vorspiel nur, dort wo man Bücher verbrennt, verbrennt man am Ende auch Menschen” (“That was only a prelude; where they burn books, they ultimately burn people”).

Sadly, Heinrich Heine was a prophet.

Gendarmenmarkt Square Downtown Berlin

Our next stop was a little less historically sad. It was the Gendarmenmarkt, a beautiful little square surrounded by stunning architecture. These building go back to the 1700′s and the Konzerthaus (concert hall) was designed by Berlin’s famous architect Karl-Friedrich Schinkel. Our tour guide Francis pointed out that Karl-Friedrich Schinkel was a huge fan of classic Greek architecture, as seen in his columns and design. Next to his amazing concert hall, is the Französischer Dom (French Cathedral) built by the Huguenots (refugees from persecution in France). The Prussians were so impressed with the French Cathedral, they built their own cathedral right across from the French one, copying the design almost line-for-line.

Gendarmenmarkt Square Downtown Berlin

Most of these buildings were heavily damaged in WWII and have been rebuilt and restored. Hitler had many of the sculptures which currently adorn the square buried so that they might survive.

Checkpoint Charlie - Berlin

On to Checkpoint Charlie! This was the gateway between GDR East Berlin and the American sector. I’m sure I was taught this in history class at some point, but our guide Francis did a terrific job of deconstructing how Germany was divided after conquering Hitler and then, subsequently, how Berlin was divided. Francis drew a little map in chalk on the sidewalk as he explained. What a cool way to learn history, on the sidewalk, right in front of Checkpoint Charlie!

Berlin Wall

After passing through Checkpoint Charlie, we were cycling down the “Death Strip”. This was the no-man’s land along the Berlin Wall. Landmines, snipers, barbed wire, that kind of thing would ensure you would have a slim chance of getting across. Today, this is one of the few sections of the wall that are still intact. Of course, we know the wall came down sometime around 1989. Some history that I can actually remember and lived through!

Tiergarten - Berlin

About midway, we finally reached the gorgeous Tiergarten. This is a large public park in the center of Berlin that was once a privte hunting ground for the aristocracy of the 1700 and 1800′s.  It is full of biking paths, trees, grass, and small ponds. It is absolutely beautiful! Apparently, it’s also a favorite spot for nude sunbathing, as we cycled pass a large field of sun worshipers in the buff!

We stopped off at a biergarten along the way and had an awesome lunch.

Lunch at the Biergarten

I had French sausages on a roll, couscous with a yogurt sauce, a salad, and a pint of another delicious German brew. I had a chance to sit and chat with some of the others on the ride, including a couple of pilots who were taking advantage of a layover to see Berlin.

Next on the tour, we hit the Reichstag. Berlin is once again the capitol of Germany and this building is to Germany what the U.S. Capitol Building is to the US in Washington D.C. Surprisingly, you can walk right up the steps to the entrance with no barriers.

Reichstag - Berlin

Much of the Reichstag, including the glass dome, where you can look down on the parliament in session, is covered in glass to symbolize the transparency of the government. This building might be the location of the single most important event in Hitler’s rise to power. Long story short, the building was burned down, he blamed it on the Communists, got parliament to grant him emergency powers, he promptly banished non-nazi sympathizers to jail and works camps,  effectively neutering the congress and became the Führer that we all know and hate. By the way, for you Star Wars fans, this sounds EXACTLY how the Emperor Palpatine rose to power in the Star Wars Prequels 1-3.

Berlin Cathedral

The last stop on the tour was Museum Island. This is a square near the Fernsehturm that is surrounded by museums and most notably, the aged Berlin Cathedral. The grasses and fountain out in front of the cathedral is a popular gathering spot for lovers, artists, gypsies, and tourists alike. The cathedral is is need of repair, but the rough exterior makes for some dramatic photos!

Gorki Park Dinner

I got home and rested up a bit and then went with Adam for a new delight: Russian food! We ate at a cool little cafe called Gorki Park. I had the Moscow meatballs with a fried egg and potatoes. GREAT stuff! I also loved the fact that there was a little beagle sitting under the table next to us. I found an excuse to drop a few pieces of potato for her!

Later, we met up with another group of expats at a funky little pub. The interior was typical dank pub but the decor was very 70′s porn fashion and bad TV show references. There was a 9 foot mural of an almost naked Burt Reynolds LMAO!

So, I have taken my first trip overseas. After a long flight with many interruptions (28 hours of planes and airports) I finally arrived in Berlin, sans my luggage. Enough about that, everyone complains about their flight….on to Berlin!

Wow, what an AMAZING city. This is the biggest “Small-Town” I have ever been in. The public transportation and railways are amazing. The multicultural feel of the city is, well, also amazing. The food and drink here is cheap and delicious and quite varied. In fact, it’s actually kind of hard to find an old-fashioned German food joint, but there is an abundance of Pan-Asian food, as well as cool little sandwich shops, Mediterranean fair, cafes, and middle eastern cuisine.

Neighborhood in Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin, Germany

I have found that most restaurateurs have someone handy that speaks English quite well. And, if you are the type of American that is not adventorus food wise (What’s the point in traveling then?), you can find a Dunkin’ Donuts, Starbucks, McDonald’s, or Burger King somewhere around the touristy areas of the city.

Incidentally, I have spend most of my time in what was once Soviet occupied East Berlin in a borough called Prenzlauer Berg. There are still a lot of Soviet-era flats and buildings around here, as well as a few Soviet monuments to themselves scattered throughout the city. However,  21 years after the fall of the Berlin wall, there is a fair amount of continuity between the two cities. And for a city of 3.something million people, it really feels like the size of a small Midwestern city.

The first night here, and just a few hours after landing, we had some good Asian food at “The Rice Queen”.  Afterwards, we took the train and met up with a weekly gathering of English speaking ex-pats at a pub in the “Artsy” borough of the city called Kreuzberg. Most of the folks at the tavern on Tuesday nights are from Australia, England, and the U.S. and meet up to practice their German on one another and just to have a chance to talk to others in English. I tried all three of the beers on tap. So hard to decide when there is so much great tasting, fresh beer available. And I DO love a good German larger or pilsner. More on that in another post.

A little foot note on laws and culture shock here too; Drinking beer or what have you while walking down the street or riding on the tram/train is perfectly ok. And I have yet to see anyone out of control drunk or stupid due to alcohol. They have a very enlightened view of life here. They pretty much let you do as you want, as long as it’s not hurting anyone else. They truly have freedom here with being over policed.

Day 2:

Eclectic Cafe Berlin, Germany

I slept in a bit to get over the jet-lag. Then, Adam and I hung around the flat waiting for my luggage to be delivered from the Airline.  We then ventured out and had a nice brunch at a little neighborhood cafe down the block. The place had a cool mishmash of 60′s and 70′s era furnishing with old 1940′s German movie star head shots on the walls. And Ray Charles played on the radio the whole time we were there. One thing I have noticed in every place I have been thus far: American music is the predominate music here in Berlin. Who would have known? Every place I have been thus far, the music playing has been American oldies or pop songs and tourists from all over the world are wearing American pop bands on their t-shirts. AC-DC seems to be a favorite. I’ve seen it on wallets, purses, t-shirts, pants, and just all over!

1938-1945: Trains to Life, Trains to Death

We traded in some of my cash for Euros and I bought a train pass for the week. That’s pretty much all I need to get all over the city. Not that anyone checks the train tickets or passes. You just hop on and off trains “on the honor system”. People seem to pay and not take advantage of this, which I doubt would ever fly in America. Also, the trains are not at ALL crowded. even during “rush hour” there is ample room and seats to be had on the trams and trains. Of course, when you mention Germany and trains, some particular images might come to mind. German’s are reminded of this through the use of art placed throughout the city. Here is one example near a train station: Trains to Life, Trains to Death.

We visited some of the must-see sights of Berlin, including the Brandenburg Gate. I’m going to post more of the Brandenburg Gate photos when I get a chance to shoot it at night. This are the gates that Napoleon came riding through after conquering Berlin and the location that you will recognize from old Nazi war footage of military parades and the awful, infamous despot, Adolf Hitler.

Pork Knuckles with Smashed Peas, Potatoes, and Sauerkraut

We ended the walk around some of the historic sights of Berlin by eating at an old-fashioned German restaurant. I had a traditional dish that farmers of old might have eaten. Pork Knuckle with mashed peas, potatoes, and sauerkraut washed down with a pint of Berliner, a locally brewed pilsner here in Berlin. It was quite good and VERY filling.

I have so much to write about, I can’t fit it all into one long post. In the next post, I will post some photos of the “Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe” and one of the most historic sites, the Reichstag. A place where an event occurred that led to Hitler seizing power and starting his awful, unthinkable “Final Solution“.

That’s all for today! I’ll post more on Day 3′s bicycle tour of Berlin tomorrow!

Lighting is Key Aaron Keith

Corpus Christi Skyline

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